Camille Easy Bias-Cut Camisole Pattern

Dress for light summer days with this delightful camisole pattern from Don Morin. Pairing perfectly with the wrap skirt also featured in this issue, this cami sewing pattern is a bias-cut tube that has elastic at the waist and bust and is finished with adjustable straps that are tied in a bow, giving it a comfortable, effortless fit. This sewing project is easy enough for beginner sewists, as, to quote the designer: “If you can sew a straight line, you can make this!”

Love this look? Be sure to check out Don’s coordinating wrap skirt, also found in this issue!

Skill Level: Beginner – Simple novice level sewing but having good knowledge of clothing construction in your repertoire will help.

Seam Allowance: 5/8”

Hem Allowance:  1/2”

Waist Casing Finish: 1/2”

Designer Notes: A summer top for every body. This camisole celebrates simplicity and easy-access — no pattern, no size stress, no tricky finishes. It’s a bias-cut tube that softly shapes to your body, gathered with elastic at the top and waist. Perfect for warm days, light cotton fabrics, and anyone who wants a quick satisfying make. If you can sew a straight line, you can make this!

Materials:

• 1–1 1/2 yd (1–1.3 m) lightweight woven summer fabric — This project is designed for fabrics like lightweight poplin, linen, viscose, rayon challis, lawn, or soft chambray.
• Matching thread (color and fiber content)
• 1/4″ or 3/8″ narrow elastic (about 1 1/2 yd total)
• Single fold bias tape, 1/2” (12mm) wide
• Bodkin or safety pin for threading elastic

Note: For the sample model, Don used Cotton Poplin Embroidery Bouquets and bias binding from fabfab™; narrow elastic by YKK™, Vlieseline™ fusible stay tape, and Gütermann™ C Ne 50 Cotton (5709).

FABRICATION:

For this camisole, look for a lightweight woven fabric with a soft drape in a solid color or small print. Good options include lightweight linen, viscose, rayon challis, cotton lawn, soft chambray, or cotton poplin. Because of the bias-cut design, avoid directional prints and napped or heavily textured fabrics.

For this tutorial, the designer chose a lightweight cotton poplin with floral embroidery for an eye-catching result.

Cotton poplin is a smooth, tightly woven natural fabric that feels light and breathable, making it ideal for warm-weather garments. It is comfortable to wear, holds its shape well, and is easy to sew – great qualities for beginner sewists. Poplin is also durable and easy to care for, though it’s best to pre-wash the fabric before cutting, as cotton can shrink. Wash in cold water to help preserve color, and air-dry to minimize shrinkage.

With its balance of comfort, structure, and versatility, cotton poplin is a reliable choice for summer sewing projects.

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

While this tutorial is designing for body shape rather than body size, there are few body measurements that are still needed. Take two simple measurements:

1. Bust circumference – around the fullest part of the torso
2. Waist circumference – at your natural waistline (just above the navel)

Use the chart below for guidance, or follow “Plot Your Own Size” to customize it perfectly.

Plot Your Own Size (If You Don’t Fit the Chart):

Want to make your own size? Easy!

1. Width (flat):
   
   
2. Length (side seam):
   
   

That’s your rectangle!

Shape the hem into a gentle “V” – 2″ up from the bottom corners at the sides of the rectangle and join with a straight line to the center of the rectangle.

MARKING AND CUTTING:

It is recommended to pre-shrink the fabric once before cutting and sewing, as fabrics made of natural fibers or with a proportion of natural fibers can shrink during the first time it’s laundered.

Before plotting the rectangle on the cloth, be sure that the fabric has been squared and is on straight grain before proceeding.

Use your own body measurements to customize it perfectly or follow the chart above for cutting amounts.

• Fold the fabric on the true bias (45° angle to the selvage).
• Chalk out your rectangles directly onto the fabric.
• Draw the V-shaped hem as described.
• Cut out shape with a rotary cutter.
• Optional: Add 4 shoulder ties if you desire, or use satin ribbons.
• For shoulder ties, chalk out 2 strips of fabric parallel to selvage. Strips are 30” x 1 1/2”. Cut 2 times.

MACHINE SET-UP:

• Machine Needle – size 70-80 universal needle
• Stitch Length – regular stitch length (2.5 of a possible 5)
• Stitch Tension – regular tension (4 of a possible 9)
• Foot Attachments – single-stitch or zigzag foot
• Pressing – moderate heat temperature (steam iron — 2-dots)

Seam Finish: Enclosed

Hem Finish: Double-turned hem

Sewing Instructions:

HEM THE SQUARES:

If you haven’t already done so, shape the bottom edge of each square into a V-shape, as described above.

1. Stabilize the “V” with fusible stay tape to prevent stretching.
2. Turn the bottom edges of the square, 2 times the width of the stay tape.
3. Finish the shaped hem with a narrow double-fold hem.

SEW THE TUBE WITH A FLAT-FELLED SEAM:

A flat-felled seam keeps everything tidy – no fraying, no extra finishing!

1. Place your fabric wrong sides together.
2. Sew the side seams with a 5/8″ seam allowance.
3. Trim one seam allowance down to about 1/4″.
4. Fold the wider seam allowance 1/4” under, then fold over the trimmed side, enclosing the raw edge.
5. Press flat to one side and topstitch close to the folded edge.

You now have a smooth, durable seam on both sides and your fabric tube is ready to go!

MAKE THE TOP CASING:

Note: If you opt to have shoulder ties, they are applied at this step. See Finishing below.

1. Turn under the top edge 1/4″ and press.
2. Turn again 3/4″ and press.
3. Optional: If using shoulder ties or satin ribbons, divide distance across the top edge into thirds, both front and back of the tube. At the division points, insert tie ends into the casing to encase.
4. Stitch close to the lower fold, leaving a 1″ opening.
5. Thread the elastic through with a bodkin or safety pin. The length of the elastic should fit comfortably above your bustline and under your arms, snug but not tight.
6. Overlap and stitch the elastic ends securely.
7. Close the opening with a few stitches.

MAKE THE WAIST CASING:

1. Try on your camisole and mark your natural waistline. Allow an extra inch for blousing.
2. On the inside, thread-baste or chalk a line all the way around at that point.
3. Sew a casing using single fold bias tape along this line, leaving a small opening.
4. Thread a piece of elastic that fits comfortably at your waist through the casing.
5. Join the ends, then sew the opening closed.

This gentle gather adds shape and definition — no darts needed.

FINISHING:

1. Make 2 shoulder ties (15” x 3/8”) from each strip. Alternatively, use narrow satin ribbons for shoulder ties.
2. Attach ties at the front and back wherever they feel best — straight or crossed  — and adjust the length of the ties for your perfect fit. Ties can be tucked inside for a strapless look.

STYLE AND ENJOY!

You did it – a lightweight, bias-cut camisole that fits your body and your summer style.

Pair it with summer shorts, jeans, or Don’s swirly wrap-around skirt (see tutorial here).

It’s simple, flattering, and all your own.