How to Sew Spaghetti Straps

All photos in this article are provided by the designer.

With the 1990s-style fashion revival in full swing, spaghetti straps are making a comeback! From tank tops to dresses to lingerie, this versatile shoulder strap can be created with materials that are already in most sewing rooms. Let’s discuss the history of this style, learn how to make them (step-by-step), and the pros and cons of making them adjustable.

History of Spaghetti Straps

Named for the slim pasta shape, spaghetti straps are very thin shoulder straps made from fabric. Spaghetti straps were initially only used for undergarments (like nightgowns, slips, bras, and other shapewear). They support the bust while also showing a large amount of shoulder and décolletage. Fabric connections resembling spaghetti straps have existed since the 1700s in Europe, and were popularized in the 1940s with the emergence of the bikini bathing suit. Amazingly, the idea for an “Adjustable and Detachable Strap for Garments” was actually invented and patented by the author Mark Twain in 1871. This would eventually become the mechanism that adjusts all kinds of thin shoulder straps.

Visible straps became trendy in the 1990s, and exposed spaghetti straps began to be seen on all kinds of women’s garments. The trend was to even contrast the color of your bra’s spaghetti straps with a tank top for a layered look. Today, they can still be found on clothing including delicate camisoles, babydoll-style dresses, bathing suits and more.

Spaghetti Strap Basics

As the name implies, spaghetti straps are thin, typically between 1/4- 1/2” (inch) in width or smaller. They are almost always in a set (one for each shoulder), but some garments can have only one for an asymmetrical look. As for fabric, thinner-weight materials with a slight stretch like rayon, light cotton, satin, silk, etc. are used to make these straps. Occasionally they are made from a very thin cording or ribbon, though usually they are created from a long bias strip (a folded and ironed piece of fabric that is cut diagonally along the stretch). One specific style of spaghetti strap is known as a “rouleau” strap and is made by sewing a tube and then turning it right-side-outwards with a loop turner tool.

Adjustable vs Non-Adjustable Spaghetti Straps

When creating a garment with spaghetti straps, you may be wondering whether or not to add an adjustable slider for sizing. These are known as lingerie strap sliders and rings, and they allow the length to be adjusted. As mentioned above, this tightening mechanism was designed to work perfectly with spaghetti straps. Adjustability allows garments to be able to fit a wider variety of people. Sliders can also tighten spaghetti straps that stretch out over time. However, there are a few negatives about using sliders on your spaghetti straps. They make the look less sleek (and more like lingerie) when used for formalwear, they can be distracting from the design aesthetic, and like any kind of supply, they can break or be damaged. Sliders can be purchased in packs from sewing supply stores and come in several colors.

Sewing Spaghetti Straps

Now to create your own spaghetti straps! They are pretty easy to sew with basic materials, and it is recommended to use a sewing machine rather than sewing them by hand (though it is possible). As mentioned above, there are several techniques to make these straps. For this article, we will examine the common bias strip style technique. Whichever style you choose, leave several extra inches on either end of your strap so it can be inserted into the garment (excess can always be trimmed off later) or continued on as the neckline or arm trim.

Materials:

Note: Cutting mat and ruler are provided by SewTites.

• Fabric (to be cut on the bias)
• Pins/clips
• Fabric scissors/rotary cutter and mat
• Ruler
• Measuring tape
• All-purpose thread in a matching (or contrasting color)
• Hand-sewing needle (if adding sliders)
• Sewing machine
• Iron and ironing board
• Adjustable lingerie sliders (optional)

Instructions:

1. Using a soft measuring tape, calculate the length your straps should be from the front bodice (near the bust) to the opposite side on the back. This varies based on the wearer but generally measures between about 9-14” long. Add extra length (about 2”) to your measurement on each end so they can be attached comfortably, and an additional few inches if adjustable sliders are being used. If the strap bias strip will be continued on to finish the neckline or arm holes, add those measurements on as well to the length. If you’re unsure, it’s always best to leave extra fabric that can be trimmed down later. Pre-made patterns will have the length needed for the spaghetti straps already specified.
2. Next, place the fabric that will be cut on your work table. It should be ironed and/or free from wrinkles. Using preferably a rotary cutter on a mat (or shears), cut the fabric on the bias (at a 45 degree angle). The strips should be 1” in width, and they will be pressed and folded inward to create 1/4” wide spaghetti straps. The length depends on the measurement calculated above, but the width should be a consistent 1” the whole way. Cut one strip out for each spaghetti strap being made. If the fabric is super-stretchy, cut it slightly off the bias.
   
   
   
   
   
3. Press each strip in half lengthwise using the iron (with the wrong sides together). After it is folded in half, open the strip and fold each side into the center crease and press again. This will create three ironed straight lines, and make the strip about 1/4” wide when it’s all folded inwards. Go slowly and carefully during this step for the best end result. A bias tape-maker tool can also be used to create these strips, saving some time.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. On the sewing machine, stitch the strips closed near the open edges. If the ends of the straps will become part of the garment’s finishing, then leave those parts open and unstitched (they will be attached to the neck or arm holes later). Use a short/medium stitch length (about 2.5-3.5) for this step. It can either be a straight stitch or a very slight zigzag for stretch. Press again with the iron if needed.
   
   
   
   
   
   
5. Insert the spaghetti straps into the finished edge of the garment. Pins (or clips) should be used to hold it in place before sewing by hand or on the machine. Double-check that the placement is correct and even on each side, including the direction the topstitching is facing (should be mirrored, with the same edge facing outwards). If the bias strip will be used to bind the garment as well, pin everything all at once before sewing.
   
   
   
   
   
   

ADDING LINGERIE SLIDERS:

1. A lingerie slider comes in two parts: a ring and a rounded rectangular piece with a bar in the middle. Because of this, a spaghetti strap with a slider is made in two separate parts. Using the bias strip made above, trim a small piece (about 2-3” long unless specified) and loop it through the ring piece. This looped fabric part can now be attached to the back bodice. It will form the shorter portion of the strap. Sew it into the finished edge with the topstitching facing outwards.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. Next, place the (loose) longer front piece of the strap up and back down through the rectangular part of the slider (with the topstitching facing outwards again). Push the slider up about 2” or so above the end of your bias strip.
   
   
   
   
3. Push the end of the same strip downwards through the ring attached to the back side of the bodice. Pull it through several inches so the cut end is close to the back of the rectangular slider piece.
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Now to attach the end of the longer strip to the slider! This step can be a bit frustrating because there isn’t much room to work with, so take your time and be patient. Pull out a bit of the top part that is through the slider so the space underneath is accessible. The end of the strip now needs to go up and over the back part (the bar) of the slider. There will now be two layers of the strap on top of each other. When it is totally through the back of the slider, fold it down a tiny bit and hand stitch until it is secure. For a cleaner look, this can be done on the machine using a zipper foot. The spaghetti strap is now adjustable by pulling the slider up and down on the fabric.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
5. Attach the front part of the spaghetti strap to the front bodice of the garment. Measure again before attaching because the length has been adjusted on the slider. Trim off any excess before hand- or machine-sewing it into the bodice.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Repairing Spaghetti Straps

Sometimes this style of strap will break, stretch out, or get loose threads. So what can be done to fix damaged spaghetti straps? Most cases will require both being removed and new ones being added, even if only one is damaged. This is in order to maintain the same look and measurements on the garment. If it is just the slider that needs to be repaired, buy a new set and replace them on both spaghetti straps so they stay even and matching.

Use this guide for your next project that includes spaghetti straps!