Quilted Sleeve Sweatshirt Challenge

Twin sisters Dana Rebmann and Deborah Bagley challenge you to makeover a plain sweatshirt with creative, quilted details! In this article and pattern combination, the sisters share their tips for refashioning thrift store finds with quilted sleeve details, from partial to full sleeve transformations. You’ll also learn how to add applique details, as well as how to select the perfect sweatshirt to makeover. They’ve included a printable template, so that you can replicate their designs in your own color palettes.

Editor’s Note: The partial sleeve quilted sweatshirt (strips) was designed by Dana Rebmann. The full sleeve quilted sweatshirt (diamonds) was designed by Deborah Bagley.

Quilted Sweatshirt Challenge

Friendly competition. My twin sister and I go head-to-head occasionally to challenge our creative abilities. One of us will propose a challenge based on an inspiration photo or video. We’ll critique the inspiration item, tweak the concept, and negotiate ground rules. Then the challenge is on!

Want to join us?

The challenge: Quilted Sweatshirt Sleeves

We saw many upcycled sweatshirts where the sleeves, pockets, hoods, and other components were changed or added. After perusing social media (and spending too much time on Pinterest), we set up our challenge, and we welcome you to join us! Upcycle a sweatshirt and share your photos on social media with your fellow We Like Sewing readers!

GROUND RULES:

The goal is to inspire, not stifle, creativity, so we usually keep the ground rules pretty simple. For this challenge, the rules are that the project:

1. Must incorporate a quilting technique.
2. Must include a partially or fully modified sleeve.
3. Must be sewn onto an existing sweatshirt.

THE BASIC PRINCIPLE:

Quilting sweatshirt sleeves is a lot of fun and is a great project for sewists of all skill levels. In general, both of us followed the same basic steps to create the sleeves, though one of us sewed partial sleeves, and the other sewed full sleeves. Here is a general overview:

1. Remove the sleeves from the sweatshirt. (The cuffs may need to be removed as well, depending on how the sleeve is altered.)
2. Sew pieces together to create strips the width of the sleeve.
3. Sew the strips to the sleeve and quilt/top stitch as desired.
4. Use the old sleeves as guides to trim off the excess quilting.
5. Sew the sleeves back into the sweatshirt.
6. Embellish in other ways (totally optional).

GENERAL TIPS FOR QUILTING SWEATSHIRT SLEEVES:

Let’s begin with a few tips for quilting sweatshirt sleeves. Some are general tips for quilting a sweatshirt and some are specific to a partial or full sleeve.

Tip #1: Use a Larger Sweatshirt

Use a sweatshirt one size larger than you usually wear. Sweatshirts have stretch but cotton for quilting does not. This means that once they are quilted, the sweatshirt sleeves will not stretch, and they will fit a little tighter and smaller.

If making partial sleeves, look for a sweatshirt that has longer sleeves to account for the extra seam allowance needed lengthwise. Consider using a man’s sweatshirt as the sleeves are usually longer. If you need to lengthen the sweatshirt sleeve, you can add some fleece stabilizer to the back (more about this later).

Tip #2: Rip Existing Seams Carefully

It’s easier than you might think to rip the seams out of a sweatshirt once you get it started. It may be tedious, but it’s worth the extra effort to seam rip the edges as cleanly as possible. The sweatshirt sleeve will be the backing/template for your quilting.

Tip #3: Iron Frequently

Iron frequently to relax the stitches and fabric. Press the seams to one side to ensure quilting lays flat.

Tip #4: Adjust Seams and Seam Allowance

Use a good 1/4” seam allowance for creating strips and for sewing strips to the sleeve. Top stitch with a 1/8” seam allowance, especially if the quilt pieces are smaller.

Tip #5: Use Quilting Cotton or Stabilize Thinner Fabrics

Cotton fabrics are generally the easiest to source and available in the widest variety of designs, but other fabrics can work, too. The sunflower fabric on the partial-sleeve sweatshirt, for example, is a very thin polyester upcycled from a valance. Simply back the thinner fabric with light weight stabilizer like Pellon SF 101 prior to cutting and quilting. Heavier weight fabrics are very bulky and are not recommended.

Tip #6: Choose Your Own Adventure with Quilting Pieces

The size and shape of the quilting pieces are a matter of personal preference. You can quilt with any shape; squares and rectangles are most common. You can use any size, too. Keep in mind that smaller pieces may look more quilt-like and larger pieces may appear more patchwork. In our projects, for example, the full sleeve is made with 3 1/2” squares, and the partial sleeve is made with 2”x 4” rectangles.

The number of different fabrics you use and the direction they are oriented is also a personal preference. Choose 5 to 10 different fabrics that coordinate. Decide if they will be parallel to the cuff (like the partial sleeve sweatshirt) or turned like a diamond (like the full sleeve sweatshirt).

Tip #7: Let the Dogs Work

Be generous in your pinning. Since the sweatshirt and quilting fabrics are most likely different fabric types (knit vs. woven), pin the work together well and let the feed dogs advance your work. Steady the fabric, but don’t push or pull on it as the sewing machine is stitching. Where there is extra bulk from seams, use a Purple Thang or pushing stick to assist.

Materials:

• Rotary cutter/scissors and mat
• Sweatshirt
• Fabric remnants
• Sewing machine with regular foot
• Purple Thang or pushing stick
• Thread
• Straight pins or fabric clips
• Craft fleece (optional)
• PDF Template – This is located at the bottom of this page. See printing instructions below.

PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS:

Note: To download the template, click on the pattern download button at the bottom of the page. We recommend opening your pattern download using Adobe Acrobat.

Sewing Instructions:

QUILTED SLEEVE PATTERN:

1. Partial Sleeve Only: Lay the sweatshirt and sleeve flat on the cutting mat and cut most of the center of the sleeves out, leaving 2.5” near the shoulder and 2.5” near the wrist cuff. (Note: The cut near the shoulder is approximate. Measure 2 1/2” from the underarm area and 2 1/2” from the shoulder top and cut straight across. You may also cut straight across the sleeve parallel to the cuff measuring 2 1/2” below the underarm area. This will give a slightly different effect on the sleeve.) Repeat for the other sleeve.
2. Full Sleeve Only: Use a seam ripper to neatly remove the sleeves from the sweatshirt, to remove the cuff from each sleeve, and to open the seam on each sleeve. Save the cuffs for reattaching later.
   1. Partial Sleeve Only: Use a seam ripper to open up the seam on the sleeve to be quilted. Also seam rip 2” on the sweatshirt near the shoulder and the cuff to make reattaching the quilted sleeve easier later.
3. If using a very thin fabric for quilting, iron light weight stabilizer to the back per packaging instructions prior to cutting.
4. Cut quilting fabric into the desired shape (e.g. 3 1/2” squares or 2”x 4” rectangles).
5. Lay the sleeve open right side up on the work surface (see Lengthen Sleeve Note below if needed). Arrange the quilting pieces in the desired layout on top of the sleeve until your fabric is wider and taller than the sleeve. Make sure the pieces overlap a bit to account for 1/4” seam allowances.
6. Sew the pieces together (e.g. on the 2” edge) with right sides together to create long skinny strips.
7. For quilting parallel to the cuff: Lay the bottom quilted strip across the bottom of the sleeve (edge nearest the cuff) making sure the quilted strip overhangs the left, right, and bottom edges.
   1. For quilting on the diamond: Lay a quilted strip diagonally across the sleeve so it overhangs the top and one side of the sleeve. If you are a perfectionist, you may want to use a water soluble pencil to draw vertical, horizontal, and diagonal lines on your sleeve to make sure the strips are squared.
8. Place the next quilted strip on top of the previous strip with right sides together. (Note: If sewing rectangles, make sure this strip has seams offset like layers on a brick wall. If sewing diamonds, make sure this strip has squares aligned point to point.)
9. Pin and sew the 2 quilted strips together and directly onto the sleeve. Open and iron. (Note: You can sew the strips together but not on the sleeve if you want a less bulky sleeve.)
10. Repeat Steps 8 and 9 until the entire sleeve is covered. Quilted fabric should overhang every edge of the sweatshirt sleeve.
11. Top stitch as desired.
    1. The Partial Sleeve is shown with top stitching along both sides of the 4” lengths where strips were sewn to the sweatshirt.
    2. The Full Sleeve is shown with top stitching along 2 edges of the long strips.
12. Trim off excess quilting fabric using the sweatshirt sleeve as the template.

PARTIAL SLEEVE ONLY:

1. Pin the cuff to the bottom edge of the quilted sleeve with the right sides together. Sew together at the edge with a zig zag stitch.
2. Turn the sleeve right side out and top stitch along the seam on the sweatshirt side of the seam that was just zig zagged together.
3. Pin and sew the top edge of the quilted sleeve to the shoulder of the sweatshirt with right sides together as per cuff.
4. Turn the sleeve right side out and top stitch along the seam on the sweatshirt side that was just zig zagged together.
5. Turn the sleeve wrong side out. Pin the length of the sleeve closed making sure the quilted seams are aligned. Sew together as per cuff.
6. Repeat all the steps for the other sleeve.

FULL SLEEVE ONLY:

1. Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise right sides together and sew the sleeve closed at the edge using a zig zag stitch.
2. Mark the half way point opposite the seam on the cuff and end of the sleeve. Place the cuff on the sleeve with right sides together, aligning the seams and halfway points and pin. Stretch and pin the cuff to the sleeve so they are evenly distributed. Sew together at the edge with a zig zag stitch.
3. Turn the cuff right side out and top stitch on the sweatshirt side of the seam (zig zag seam just made).
4. Mark the half way point opposite the seam on the sleeve at the shoulder and on the sweatshirt. With right sides together, pin the sleeve to the shoulder at the seam and half way point and then around the rest of the sleeve. Sew together at the edge using the zig zag stitch.
5. Turn the sleeve right side out and top stitch on the sweatshirt side of the seam (zig zag seam just made).
6. Repeat all the steps for the other sleeve.

FINISHING:

1. Quilt other features for the sweatshirt or create appliques for decorating pockets or other areas of the sweatshirt as follows.
   1. Iron Wonder Under to desired fabric (as per directions on package). Cut out the design. Iron the applique to the sweatshirt where desired.
   2. Top stitch around the design approximately 1/8” from edges.
2. Wear and show off your quilted sweatshirt. Post photos to the socials and share your designs with your fellow WLS readers.

TIPS FOR LENGTHENING SLEEVES:

1. The sweatshirt used for the partial sleeves had sleeves that originally ended at the wrist, which wasn’t long enough since it would lose length with 2 new seams. 2” of craft fleece was added to make it a tad longer and to account for the seam allowances.
2. Cut craft fleece to the extra length x width of the sleeve nearest the cuff (e.g. 2” x width).
3. Place the width of craft fabric next to the width of the sweatshirt sleeve near the cuff and zig zag stitch them together. Since the fabrics are laying side by side, there will not be any extra bulk.
4. Continue quilting the sleeve per the directions above.