Penny Retro-Inspired Handbag Pattern

Vintage fashion lovers will lose their minds over this gorgeous handbag pattern from Lauren Merciris. Inspired by Kate Hudson’s character Penny Lane in the movie Almost Famous, this retro-inspired bag pattern is recommended for luxe and vibrant fabrics like brocade or jacquard and features a vintage-inspired metal handle with a clasp closure. Pair your handbag sewing pattern with your best day dress for a retro chic look or add it to your faux fur, shearling, or suede winter coat for the ultimate ‘70s ensemble.

Finished Sizes:

• Small size: 30 cm/11 3/4 in. x 30 cm/11 3/4 in.
• Large size: 35 cm/13 3/4 in. x 35 cm/13  3/4 in.

Materials:

• PDF Pattern – This is located at the bottom of this page. Please see printing instructions below.

PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS:

Note: To download the pattern, click on the pattern download button at the bottom of the page. We recommend opening your pattern download using Adobe Acrobat.

Sewing Instructions:

CUTTING:

1. Cut out each piece as many times as the PDF pattern indicates in the respective fabrics.

ASSEMBLING THE POCKET:

1. Position the two pocket fabrics right sides together, inserting the piping on top of the pocket, piping side down. The piping should be sandwiched. Pin in place. (Fig. 1)
   
   
2. Pin the remaining 3 sides, leaving a 5 cm/2 in. gap at the bottom of the pocket so that it can be turned right side out.
3. Sew 1 cm/0.4 in. around the edge of the pocket, leaving the 5 cm/2 in. opening unstitched. (Fig. 2)
   
   
4. Trim the corners, turn right side out and press, tucking in the margins of the unstitched opening. Iron the pocket.
5. Pin the pocket to one side of the lining, right sides together, according to the placement marking. (Fig. 3)
   
   
6. Sew the sides and bottom of the pocket to the lining, 0.2 mm/0.08 in. from the edge, using holding stitches at the pocket opening to secure it.

ASSEMBLE THE BAG:

1. Place the 2 outer faces right sides together. Pin and sew sides and bottom at 1 cm/0.4 in. Iron to spread and flatten the seams. (Fig. 4)
   
   
2. Join the 2 bottom corners by joining the 2 seams. Pin and sew at 1 cm/0.4 in. Iron, spreading seam allowances. (Fig. 5)
   
   
3. Place the 2 inside faces right sides together. Pin and sew sides and bottom together at 1 cm/0.4 in., leaving a 10 cm/4 in. opening at the bottom of the bag (to turn the bag right side out once sewn).
4. Join the 2 bottom corners by joining the 2 seams. Pin and sew at 1 cm/0.4 in. Iron to spread and flatten the seams.
5. Turn the outer bag right side out and insert into inner bag, right sides together. Pin together the 2 bag openings (top of bag), aligning side seams (and spreading seam allowances). Sew 1 cm/0.4 in. all around. Edge and trim. (Fig. 6 and 7)
   
   
   
6. Turn the bag right side out, pulling it through the opening left in the lining, highlighting corners and curves. Iron carefully.
7. Close the opening left in the bottom of the inner bag (lining) with a stitch at 2 mm/0.08 in. from the edge.

SEWING THE METAL CLASP:

1. Carefully insert one side of the bag by hand into one of the clasp frames, and stitch 3 or 4 times of the way down the middle and sides of the frame to hold the bag in place with a basting thread. (Fig. 8)
   
   
2. Sew all around the frame by hand, using a technique inspired by the saddle stitch used to sew leather. This technique creates a highly resistant hand stitch:

Preparation:

1. You’ll need a thread approximately 100 cm/40 in. long. (Preferably in the same color as the lining, so it won’t show when you open the bag).
2. Pass a needle through the thread and position it in the middle. Make a double knot just behind the eye of the needle, so as not to interfere with the passage through the fabric.
3. At the other end, pass the 2 threads through a second needle and tie a knot behind the needle eye. Trim the excess knot. (Fig. 9)
   
   

How to Sew:

1. With the bag and frame in profile, insert a needle through the first hole in the frame on the outside and through the fabric so that it comes into the inside.
2. Take the needle on the outside and insert it through the 2nd hole in the frame clasp. Pass it through to the other side (taking the bag fabric of course) but don’t pull on the thread. Now take your needle on the inside and pass it through the same place as the thread on the inside of the bag, and pass it through hole number 2 on the outside. Tie a knot with the inner needle thread to secure the stitch at the point.
3. Now repeat to the end: Pass your outer needle through the frame and then your fabric so that it ends up on the inside. Take the other inner needle and pass it through the same place on the outer side. With the needle on the inside, tie a knot at the seam, etc. (Outside to inside, inside to outside, inside knot…).
4. Repeat until you reach the last hole. Once you’ve reached the last hole, go back to the second-to-last hole and from there, make a double knot before cutting the threads.
5. If you don’t have enough thread to finish the frame in one go, repeat the previous operation, and with the new thread, start again from the same hole.
6. Repeat for the second part of the clasp frame.
7. Optional: Attach the removable metal chain by hooking the ends to the 2 metal clips on one side of the clasp.

TIPS:

• If your metal clasp or frame has a different size, carefully take the dimensions of your frame (taking the holes into account) in width and height.
• Add to these values 2 cm/0.8 in. for the width and 1 cm/0.4 in. for the height.
• Adapt the pattern by redrawing the shape of your frame with the new dimensions, and you can follow the next steps to make your bag.